Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Suzuki OEM Under Cowling and Tank Pad

So last week my remaining two packages arrived -- one containing my Givi Maxia 3 topcase and mounting plate, and the other the Suzuki OEM under cowling, hand guards, and tank pad.  This posting will cover the installation of the under cowling and tank pad.  The latter will pretty much consist of a picture of the finished installation since it's not exactly rocket science.

Many people say that the OEM under cowling isn't worth it, because it doesn't protect the bottom of the bike, is made of plastic, and costs as much as a metal skid plate.  While I do admit that it was a bit of a mental struggle to justify its cost, it suits my needs since I don't plan on doing any off-road riding that would require the additional weight of a metal skid plate.  I just wanted something to protect the oil filter and the front exhaust header that didn't add a lot of weight to the bike.  I considered the Givi belly pan but I think the OEM under cowling integrates with the bike's overall look better.  The best price I found was at www.OneidaSuzuki.com, and they were able to get it to me in 5 days despite being in the path of Superstorm Sandy.

This is a very simple installation, and the Suzuki installation instructions are actually quite good.  Even so, I still find it helpful to have pictures of the actual parts.

Tools Used:
  • Philips Head Screw Driver
  • Sockets: 8mm, 10mm
  • Ratchet
  • Hex Driver: 5mm
  • Torque Wrench
Time to Install:  ~45 minutes


Center/Front and Right pieces fitted together.
Left piece ready to be fitted.
The under cowl comes in three pieces (left, center/front, right), individually wrapped in foam padded sleeves.  These foam sleeves served a nice dual purpose as layout mats for keeping the parts off of the floor.  The three pieces snap together, which I discovered unintentionally as I was checking their fit, and then secured on either side of the center/front piece by three screws.

The tab from the side piece snaps over the screw post on the center/front piece . 
Notice that the two top screws are shorter than the four bottom screws. 
Here's how it looks fully assembled.
The installation kit includes a neoprene pad that attaches to the under cowling at the top-center.  The pad is peel-and-stick, so it's simply a matter of locating it per the instructions and sticking it on.


There are four (4) rubber grommets that go into the holes where the under cowling connects to the mounting brackets.  It's easiest to insert them from the inside of the cowl by squeezing them flat and inserting the end of the grommet onto the edge inside the hole.  Then it's just a matter of pushing the rest of the grommet in and making sure the sides lay flat on the inside and outside.  There are four (4) aluminum sleeves that then get inserted into each grommet, but I decided not to put those in until I was ready to mount the cowling to the bike.






Now that the under cowling is assembled, it's time to install the mounting brackets on the bike.  The front bracket mounts to two stand-offs on the front cylinder housing using the 10mm socket to drive the two provided bolts.  Be sure to install it with the bar above the bolts as shown below.

The stand-offs are just below the exhaust connection.
Front bracket installed.
Front bracket mounting point.
The lower/side brackets are mounted using the 8mm socket to drive the existing bolts from the clutch cover and generator cover.  The brackets are stamped with "L" and "R" even though it's fairly obvious which one goes where.  The installation instructions say to torque all of these bracket bolts to 10 N-m / 7.0 lbf-ft.

Right side (Clutch) bracket with "R" stamp.

Left side (Generator) bracket with "L" stamp.
Now that the brackets are installed, it's time to mount the under cowling.  Before doing so, it's time to insert the aluminum sleeves into each of the four (4) rubber grommets in the cowling.  It's a simple matter of working it into the opening and sliding it in until it's flush on both sides.



If you are working on the bike with it on the side stand, you will want to start mounting the cowling from the right side.  If you start on the left side, the cowl will want to rotate out under the bike thanks to gravity and flex at the bolt holes.  It seems as though the material is sturdy enough to not crack or anything, but why risk it?  By starting on the right side, it will simply hang on the bolts without any flexing.  I snugged everything up on both sides using the 5mm hex driver and then torqued the bolts according to the installation instructions to 7 N-M / 5.0 lbf-ft.  And here it is installed:



The tank pad installation is quite tricky.  Not.  The package comes with an alcohol wipe with which you can clean the surface.  Then it's simply a matter of eye-balling it where you want to put it.  Again, this is a little more expensive than other aftermarket tank pads, but I like the factory look of it.  Now that I look at it again, I wish I had put it a little further up towards the warning stickers.  Oh well.  It also reminds me that I need to bust out the hair dryer and remove those.

UPDATE:  With regard to removing the stickers, I ended up just letting the bike sit out in the summer sun for about 30 minutes, and that was enough to allow me to gently peel them off without leaving any residue behind.


So that's the OEM Under Cowling and Tank Pad.  Next up is the Givi Maxia 3 top case and mounting plate.

8 comments:

  1. Thank you for posting the instructions. Yesterday got my under cowling, I opened the box and took with with the manual to read it in the office... now is missing (I can't find it), but with this instructions I'll be able to install it this weekend. Thanks again.

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    1. I hope you're able to get it installed okay. It's a fairly simple process, so you shouldn't have any issues.

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  2. Hey man,
    Is it easy to get to the oil filter without taking off the cowling or does the cowling need to come off for every oil change?
    Thanks for the great blog. I've had my 2013 v strom DL650 for almost 2 weeks and I'm 160 km into my break in period. Your blog has helped me decide to get sliders instead of crash bars because I don't do any off roading at all. Do you find that the sliders touch your upper shins or knees at all?

    Thanks very much and please keep posting!

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    1. Hey, Johnny -- thanks for the kind words. To answer your first question, I really can't say. I'll be honest with you, I take my bike to a mechanic for everything, including oil changes. It's a choice. What I can tell you is that the cowling comes off very easily by removing only 4 screws. At most, it would take you 5 minutes to remove and another 5 to reinstall. I think that would be a lot easier than trying to maneuver around it even if you had the bike up on a lift. As for the sliders, I do not have any trouble with touching the sliders with my legs. The only time I notice them is when I'm on a long ride, and I want to stretch my legs. Then I have to swing my leg around them and out into the wind to straighten them. I suppose you could even drape your legs over them, but I can't imagine that's very comfortable. My opinion of them continues to be very high, and I can recommend them without reservation. Blair is great to deal with both pre- and post-sales. Enjoy your new bike!

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  3. Hey man,
    Thanks for the super quick response. I appreciate your answer and your very clear writing style in your blog. I also take my bike (I've had a 2005 SV 1000s for 3 years) to a mechanic as well for everything but your blog inspires me to the try to do of the work myself. I will definitely purchase the sliders from svracingparts.com based on your recommendations as well as what I've learned through my own research. I'll let you know how it goes. It's getting cold up here in Vancouver so I'll be getting some of those OEM handguards and maybe some heated grips too.
    Thanks again!

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    1. Vancouver... Now I'm really jealous! You have a lot of great roads to ride up that way. The handguards do help quite a bit in keeping the cold wind off. I haven't felt the need for heated grips, but then again, I do live in Texas. "Winter" is when temperatures fall below 60F. :-D You shouldn't have any problems with installing the sliders or the handguards. If I can do it, anyone can do it! Just remember to hand tighten the last nuts that secure the handguards as it seems easy to strip the threads. This type of work I'll do myself. It's the stuff that's vital to the bike's running condition like brake work, anything to do with the engine, maintenance services, and oil changes that I leave to the mechanic. I'm well aware of my limits. Enjoy the riding up there!

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  4. Hello mate thanks for the instructions to fit the lower cowling they really helped. Just finished putting mine on and it looks great. Thanks again.

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    1. You’re very welcome! I’m glad this old blog was still of use to you. Enjoy your ride!

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